What’s the best silk?
Most of us have heard about thread counts per inch (TPI) in cotton fabrics. This measure is used to understand what type of material one is so to decide which one is best for a certain purpose. Other textile measurement are denier and txt (density of fibers), super S (fineness for wool), and momme in silk.
What exactly is momme count in silk?
Momme (pronounce the words Mom – me), is a Japanese measuring system that refers the density of the silk –more than the weight.
The higher the momme (mm) number, the heavier and more durable the silk (and the more opaque it is). It can be as low as 10 momme and can be as high as 30.
But all has its purpose: scarves, sheets, pants, shirts… everything needs its right density. Silk in general is a semi-transparent fabric but, the heavier it is the less shiny, the lighter it is the more transparent and translucent.
In shirting 15-22 momme is a standard weight: flowy, soft, shiny. Silk with a momme weight from 16-19 is usually considered high quality and perfect for all seasons.
When deciding on color, remember that dyed silk will be more opaque as the dye will stop light from passing through the fabric, while white silk will be less opaque.
Choosing the right silk shirt based on Momme
When you are choosing a silk, that standard momme weight will vary depending on the type of silk fabric. This is because it varies due to the purpose, look and the effect of the silk: if it’s a see-through, a jacket-shirt, a stiffer or a softer top… A chiffon blouse, for example, ranges from 6 to 8 mommes, this means that higher momme does not mean higher quality!
So now you know the typical momme standards you can figure out the best quality without any confusion.
What type of silk weave you are looking for?
Our shirts are made with 100% pure silk (16-18mm) Sand-Washed Habotai, Crepe de Chine and Satin Charmeuse.
Sand-Washed Habotai It’s a soft medium weight fabric with a smooth surface and a beautiful fluid drape. Sand washing is one of the post-treatments for silk fabrics and it makes the fabric feel softer and removes the shiny appearance you get from silk satin. Our LETE SILK shirt is made in 16mm
Satin Crepe Silk Often called the "Ferrari" of silks, Silk Charmeuse, known also as Crepe Back Silk Satin (or crepe satin), has softly muted crepe / rough feel on one side and the classic shiny shimmery satin on the other. It has a supple hand, luxurious drape, and a super soft and smooth touch.
See our Satin Pure Charmeuse Silk Shirt
Crepe de Chine Light-weight and flowy, also spelled Crêpe De Chine, (French: “crepe of China”), a crepe de Chine texture has a slightly crisp / rough character; this feature is produced by the use of weft, or filling, yarns spun with the twist running in reverse directions and known as right-hand and left-hand twist, respectively.
Our SETA shirt in pure crepe de Chine (16mm) is soft, fluid and slightly sheer. Great in any season.